A recent study by Arnika, IPEN, and 14 partner organisations, including CHEM Trust, revealed the presence of toxic per- and polyfluoroalkyl substances (PFAS) in outdoor coats and clothing from 13 countries across Asia, Africa, Europe, and North America.
Out of 72 clothing samples tested – including coats, swimsuits, and t-shirts – 46 items (64%) contained PFAS, revealing widespread issue.
PFOA, a globally banned PFAS, was the most common chemical in the coats tested. Many of the coats were marketed for children, so finding PFAS in this clothing is particularly concerning.
However, of the outdoor wear tested in the UK only 1 of the 7 coats contained PFAS, demonstrating that PFAS-free alternatives are widely available.
PFAS and textiles
PFAS, commonly known as the ‘forever chemicals,’ are a group of over 10,000 synthetic substances used for their water and stain-resistant properties.
In the EU, PFAS use in all textile applications accounts for about 11% of total usage. Yet, textiles are responsible for 31% of PFAS emissions. Their application in clothing ranges from outdoor jackets to everyday wear, making them a ubiquitous presence in our wardrobes. While widely used, many PFAS applications in textiles are optional, and studies have shown that alternatives exist, such as tightly woven fabrics and plant-based materials.
However, the durability that makes PFAS valuable in textiles is precisely what renders them a persistent threat to human health and the environment.
Health and environmental threats
PFAS exposure is linked to developmental issues, immune system disruption, and other serious health conditions, and the presence of these chemicals in clothing is particularly concerning for vulnerable populations like children.
There are specific concerns for children from PFAS exposure. A 2022 review by the National Academies of Science, Engineering, and Medicine in the US found specific concerns for children from PFAS exposures.
The report indicated likely associations with elevated blood cholesterol, slightly reduced birth weight, and weakened antibody response to vaccines or infections. Children’s vulnerability to PFAS stems from lower body weight, differing water and food intake, developing organ systems, proximity to floor-level pollutants, and longer lifespans, allowing toxic effects to manifest over time.
The environmental impact is equally concerning. The life cycle of PFAS-treated textiles, from production to disposal, results in continuous environmental release. PFAS are extremely persistent, and once in our environment, they will last for generations to come. Therefore, addressing the non-essential use of PFAS in textiles is crucial to reducing both the environmental impact and human health risks associated with these persistent chemicals.
What did we do?
In 2022, CHEM Trust purchased five children’s coats and two puddle suits advertised as waterproof, water-resistant or showerproof from UK brands and shops set out in the table below.
| Brand | Store |
| Peter Storm | E-shop Blacks |
| Berghaus | E-shop Mountain Warehouse |
| Mountain Warehouse | E-shop Blacks |
| Regatta | E-shop Regatta |
| John Lewis | E-shop John Lewis |
| George (ASDA) | E-shop ASDA |
| Tu (Sainsbury) | E-shop TU/Sainsbury |
We cut 100 cm2 of fabric from each item’s outer layer and sent these samples to an independent, accredited laboratory for analysis. As thousands of PFAS can be used in products, two kinds of tests were performed. Samples were tested for 58 specific PFAS and for extractable organic fluorine (EOF), a measurement that correlates with the use of any PFAS.
Results
In the UK, just one of the outdoor items of clothing that was sent for testing contained PFAS. The other clothing was found to be PFAS-free – even though they were also advertised as waterproof or shower-resistant. This demonstrates that many companies are opting for non-PFAS alternatives for waterproofing clothing, highlighting the unnecessary use of PFAS.
The Mountain Warehouse Seasons Printed Kids Water Resistant Padded Jacket, bought in 2022, contained 765.1 ng/g (ppb) of the PFAS 8:2 FTOH.
8:2 FTOH is a PFAS chemical that degrades into PFOA, which is a banned substance under the Stockholm Convention. As such, 8:2 FTOH is also banned and cannot be used in consumer products.
Comparison with other European countries
Twenty-nine pieces of outdoor clothing (mainly coats) from Europe (UK, Germany, Czechia, Poland, Serbia, Netherlands) were tested for PFAS. 14 (48%) of these contained PFAS, including nine that contained PFOA. Nine other jackets from Europe were also found to contain 8:2FTOH, but the jacket from Mountain Warehouse had the highest concentration of the chemical of the brands tested.
Dr Anna Watson, Director of Policy and Advocacy at CHEM Trust, said:
“It is alarming that banned PFAS are turning up in children’s clothes, especially because children are particularly vulnerable to the effects of these chemicals. However, it is promising to see that PFAS-free clothing is available. This shows that PFAS are unnecessary in children’s outdoor wear and that a transition to a PFAS-free economy is already underway.
To protect people and nature, we need a ban on all PFAS. However, the textile industry should not wait for this ban and must stop using PFAS in everyday clothing as soon as possible.”
Comment from Mountain Warehouse
We asked Mountain Warehouse for a comment on our findings.
A spokesperson from Mountain Warehouse said:
The product tested by CHEM Trust in 2022 was old stock which met chemical safety laws at the time. Mountain Warehouse has been working hard to eradicate PFCs from our products while retaining the waterproof functionality. We started our PFC-free journey in 2021 and have worked tirelessly with our supply chain to resolve challenges with PFC-free waterproof effectiveness. We are proud to say that all children’s products sourced since August 2022 have been PFC-free, and all adult clothing and accessories have been sourced PFC-free since December 2023.
Our recommendations
To solve the global PFAS pollution crisis, we must stop adding to the pollution burden and address existing pollution.
We are calling on national governments and the European Union to:
- Implement a complete phase-out of all PFAS uses in consumer products, including clothing, by 2025.
- Establish and support a universal restriction on all PFAS, ensuring thorough implementation.
- Rapidly develop and fund initiatives for decontaminating affected areas, applying the polluter-pays principle for cost allocation.
- Introduce economic incentives for adopting PFAS-free alternatives whilst ensuring a just transition for impacted workers and communities.
- Enact legislation to prevent the recycling of PFAS-contaminated textile waste back into the economy and environment.
The textile industry must also play its part by taking proactive steps to eliminate PFAS from their products. This involves rethinking manufacturing processes and supply chains to prioritise non-toxic, sustainable practices and support innovation.
We need policymakers to urgently prioritise this issue and phase out all PFAS for the health of people and our planet.
Additional reading:
The full report, including the results from all 13 countries and test methods, can be found here: Toxics in Our Clothing
The BanPFAS manifesto signed by over 100 European civil society groups can be found here: BanPFAS
The UK PFAS action plan developed by CHEM Trust, Fidra, Wildlife and Countryside Link, Whale and Dolphin Conservation and the Marine Conservation Society can be found here: UK PFAS plan.
